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Organic compound used in sunscreen
Chemical compound
Methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (INCI ) is an organic compound used in sunscreens to absorb UVA radiation . It is marketed as Mexoryl 400 by L'Oréal . MCE has an absorption maximum of 385 nm, which is in the long-wave UVA range (UVA1 , 360−400 nm).[ 1] [ 2] [ 3] [ 4] [ 5] [ 6] [ 7] Like Mexoryl SX (Ecamsule ) and Mexoryl XL (Drometrizole trisiloxane ), it is used exclusively in products manufactured by L'Oréal.[ 8] MCE was developed by L'Oréal and BASF .[ 9]
MCE is a yellow solid in the form of powder or small chunks.[ 1] At 25 °C, it is soluble in phenoxyethanol , dimethyl capramide, ethoxydiglycol , dimethyl isosorbide, and alcohol (ethanol ), which are ingredients used in cosmetics.[ 1] [ 10] [ 11] [ 12] [ 13] [ 14]
It is considered a cyclic merocyanine .[ 15]
Safety and regulation [ edit ]
In 2019, MCE was approved for use up to a maximum concentration of 3% as a UV filter in cosmetics in the EU .[ 1] It is not currently recognised or approved by the FDA for use in cosmetics in the US .
^ a b c d "Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety" (PDF) . europa.eu . Retrieved 28 July 2024 .
^ Marionnet, Claire; de Dormael, Romain; Marat, Xavier; Roudot, Angélina; Gizard, Julie; Planel, Emilie; Tornier, Carine; Golebiewski, Christelle; Bastien, Philippe; Candau, Didier; Bernerd, Françoise (January 2022). "Sunscreens with the New MCE Filter Cover the Whole UV Spectrum: Improved UVA1 Photoprotection In Vitro and in a Randomized Controlled Trial" . JID Innovations . 2 (1). doi :10.1016/j.xjidi.2021.100070 . ISSN  2667-0267 . PMC  8762479 . PMID  35072138 .
^ Aguilera, José; Gracia-Cazaña, Tamara; Gilaberte, Yolanda (2023-10-01). "New developments in sunscreens" . Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences . 22 (10): 2473– 2482. Bibcode :2023PhPhS..22.2473A . doi :10.1007/s43630-023-00453-x . ISSN  1474-9092 . PMID  37543534 .
^ Bernerd, Françoise; Passeron, Thierry; Castiel, Isabelle; Marionnet, Claire (January 2022). "The Damaging Effects of Long UVA (UVA1) Rays: A Major Challenge to Preserve Skin Health and Integrity" . International Journal of Molecular Sciences . 23 (15): 8243. doi :10.3390/ijms23158243 . ISSN  1422-0067 . PMC  9368482 . PMID  35897826 .
^ PubChem. "2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-2-cyano-2-[3-(3-methoxypropylamino)cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene]acetate" . pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov . Retrieved 2024-07-30 .
^ de Dormael, Romain; Bernerd, Francoise; Bastien, Philippe; Candau, Didier; Roudot, Angelina; Tricaud, Caroline (September 2022). "Improvement of photoprotection with sunscreen formulas containing the cyclic merocyanine UVA1 absorber MCE: In vivo demonstration under simulated and real sun exposure conditions in three randomised controlled trials" . JEADV Clinical Practice . 1 (3): 229– 239. doi :10.1002/jvc2.38 . ISSN  2768-6566 .
^ Flament, F.; Mercurio, D. G.; Muller, B.; Li, J.; Tricaud, C.; Bernerd, F.; Roudot, A.; Candau, D.; Passeron, T. (January 2024). "The impact of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate ( MCE ) UVA1 filter on pigmentary and ageing signs: An outdoor prospective 8-week randomized, intra-individual comparative study in two populations of different genetic background" . Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology . 38 (1): 214– 222. doi :10.1111/jdv.19486 . ISSN  0926-9959 . PMID  37655436 .
^ "L'Oréal Breaks the Ultra-long UVA Code with UVMune 400" . Cosmetics & Toiletries . 2022-05-24. Retrieved 2024-07-28 .
^ "La Roche-Posay UVMune 400: Science and Review" . Lab Muffin Beauty Science . 2024-06-10. Retrieved 2024-07-28 .
^ PubChem. "Phenoxyethanol" . pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov . Retrieved 2024-07-29 .
^ PubChem. "N,N-Dimethyldecanamide" . pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov . Retrieved 2024-07-29 .
^ PubChem. "Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether" . pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov . Retrieved 2024-07-29 .
^ PubChem. "Dimethyl isosorbide" . pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov . Retrieved 2024-07-29 .
^ Lachenmeier, Dirk W (2008-11-13). "Safety evaluation of topical applications of ethanol on the skin and inside the oral cavity" . Journal of Occupational Medicine and Toxicology . 3 (1): 26. doi :10.1186/1745-6673-3-26 . ISSN Â 1745-6673 . PMC Â 2596158 . PMID Â 19014531 .
^ Winkler, Barbara; Hoeffken, Hans Wolfgang; Eichin, Kai; Houy, Wolfgang (2014-03-05). "A cyclic merocyanine UV-A absorber: mechanism of formation and crystal structure" . Tetrahedron Letters . 55 (10): 1749– 1751. doi :10.1016/j.tetlet.2014.01.113 . ISSN  0040-4039 .